Gourmet Food
- No Doubt About It Cookbook is Tops
- Grandma's Food Gives Inspiration
- Culinary School Classes for All
- Cobalt Blue and Fabulous
- Traveling, Tourism, Environment
- Purslane and Potatoes
- Tools, Tales and Cucurbits
- Tip for New York Readers
- Moose Sliders, Razor Clams
- Vegan Schmegan
No Doubt About It Cookbook is Tops
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Looking for a shower, wedding, or birthday gift? This is the new cook's first fish bible.
I met Chef Rick Moonen in Monterey. He's going to join Teach a Man to Fish this year and I can't wait! Chef Moonen's book, Fish Without a Doubt, embodies the same energy as he does: straight shooting, smart, fun, informed.
You have the sense from Chef Moonen, and from his book, that this is a trusted friend you can come as you are, ask any question, and have a great time cooking a terrific meal. Allaying cooks' fears about fish in a natural way, he doesn't avoid any tough issues, just lays out the facts and moves forward. Fish whose stocks are depleted simply don't appear in the book. He also tells us which fish that are included, should be eaten judiciously. An early leader in sustainability - long before it was fashionable - Chef Moonen is an inspiration.
Recipes, photos, resources, and tips are all here to make your intro to fish smooth and stress-free. If you need a little help convincing the family to try a new dish, Catfish Sloppy Joes is a sure bet.
Clams and Chorizo (p. 283) is a great example of his style. Six ingredients, six steps, 20 minutes and you've got dinner for two or appetizers for four.
See his website for more information. Join in the fray by telling me about your cookbook favorites and pet peeves, here: Cookbooks read, reviewed, reviled, recommended.
You have the sense from Chef Moonen, and from his book, that this is a trusted friend you can come as you are, ask any question, and have a great time cooking a terrific meal. Allaying cooks' fears about fish in a natural way, he doesn't avoid any tough issues, just lays out the facts and moves forward. Fish whose stocks are depleted simply don't appear in the book. He also tells us which fish that are included, should be eaten judiciously. An early leader in sustainability - long before it was fashionable - Chef Moonen is an inspiration.
Recipes, photos, resources, and tips are all here to make your intro to fish smooth and stress-free. If you need a little help convincing the family to try a new dish, Catfish Sloppy Joes is a sure bet.
Clams and Chorizo (p. 283) is a great example of his style. Six ingredients, six steps, 20 minutes and you've got dinner for two or appetizers for four.
See his website for more information. Join in the fray by telling me about your cookbook favorites and pet peeves, here: Cookbooks read, reviewed, reviled, recommended.
Grandma's Food Gives Inspiration
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Though trained as a classical percussionist, this chef follows the beat of his own drum in the kitchen. Inspiration comes from many sources.
Whether it's fresh heirloom vegetables from his own Salts Farm, or the memory of baking beside his Grandmother, or going to the market with her and grabbing piping hot bread from the Italian bakers; Chef Gabriel Bremer draws inspiration from many sources. He's one of an increasingly well-known cadre of chefs to come out of Cleveland. Michael Symon, Michael Ruhlman, Regan Reik, Dominic Cerino.
Bremer's a big fan of new techniques pioneered by Ferrán Adrià, and now known as "molecular gastronomy" though Chef Adrià himself does not use that term. So how did this Food & Wine annointed "Best Chef" go from Cleveland's West Side Market, to cooking for the award winning Fore Street restaurant in Portland ME, to running the beautiful boîte of restaurant in Cambridge MA called Salts?
Like many in the business, working in a restaurant was first a way to earn money for school. Soon he realized the restaurant, not the Conservatory, was where his heart was. Full scholarship or not!
Some might raise an eyebrow at foam on the plate, but Bremer brings familiar flavors to his contemporary comfort food. He artfully uses new techniques to bring just enough surprise to the table that diners are able to find new pleasure in known dishes. Exactly as Adrià would do, without missing a beat.
Read my Q & A with Chef Bremer for a fascinating take on new food, musical inspiration and what tastes like it came out of your grandmother's kitchen, foam and all.
Bremer's a big fan of new techniques pioneered by Ferrán Adrià, and now known as "molecular gastronomy" though Chef Adrià himself does not use that term. So how did this Food & Wine annointed "Best Chef" go from Cleveland's West Side Market, to cooking for the award winning Fore Street restaurant in Portland ME, to running the beautiful boîte of restaurant in Cambridge MA called Salts?
Like many in the business, working in a restaurant was first a way to earn money for school. Soon he realized the restaurant, not the Conservatory, was where his heart was. Full scholarship or not!
Some might raise an eyebrow at foam on the plate, but Bremer brings familiar flavors to his contemporary comfort food. He artfully uses new techniques to bring just enough surprise to the table that diners are able to find new pleasure in known dishes. Exactly as Adrià would do, without missing a beat.
Read my Q & A with Chef Bremer for a fascinating take on new food, musical inspiration and what tastes like it came out of your grandmother's kitchen, foam and all.
Culinary School Classes for All
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Learn side-by-side with top instructors at the International Culinary Center. The Perfect Baguette, the Ultimate Thanksgiving Dinner are just two of many courses offered.
The International Culinary Center introduces a new Recreational Division that will offer fun, hands-on courses for people of all ages and culinary skills at a fraction of the time and cost of a professional culinary school.
For the first time, world class chef instructors will be offering classes for the public. You'll be taught in the same hands-on, immersion technique that they use to teach students enrollled at The French Culinary Institute.
The introductory Recreational Division courses range from The Perfect Baguette to The Ultimate Thanksgiving Dinner to a special Cooking 101 series taught by chef, radio host and author, Michael Colameco. The courses-which cost between $150 and $395-- are single-session, classes that run three or four hours.
For more information about course descriptions or enrollment, please visit see their website here.
Hungry for More?
Don't forget the up-coming, inaugural New York Culinary Experience, where you'll have even more in-depth, hands-on training from top chefs for a whole weekend of master classes. Read about it here.
For the first time, world class chef instructors will be offering classes for the public. You'll be taught in the same hands-on, immersion technique that they use to teach students enrollled at The French Culinary Institute.
The introductory Recreational Division courses range from The Perfect Baguette to The Ultimate Thanksgiving Dinner to a special Cooking 101 series taught by chef, radio host and author, Michael Colameco. The courses-which cost between $150 and $395-- are single-session, classes that run three or four hours.
For more information about course descriptions or enrollment, please visit see their website here.
Hungry for More?
Don't forget the up-coming, inaugural New York Culinary Experience, where you'll have even more in-depth, hands-on training from top chefs for a whole weekend of master classes. Read about it here.
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Whether it's at Katz's Deli or Russ & Daughters, you'll hear good stories, live them out and eat well all the while.
Cobalt Blue and Fabulous
Imagine a very, very chic woman, dressed to the nines, jet black and cobalt blue hair. Like a cross between Coco Chanel and Chryssie Hynde - high heels, tailored pants, crisp white blouse. Oh my god. I wanted to follow her and just be in her presence. She’s more chic, turned more heads on her morning bagel run than I do on my very best date night. At half her age. Her stories, you can only imagine. I’m sure there are some amazing tales in that life.
And stories are plentiful when you go to a Jewish Deli or Appetizing store. Even when you take an intro class on the world of lox. There are many reasons to go but just as many to visit their website. See Russ & Daughters. Buy, listen, watch, eat.
The only thing you'll be hungry for is more stories.
Took my niece and her boyfriend Paul with us to the Astor Center for a class with another recovering attorney, Mark Russ Federman (third generation). Little did I know when we invited Paul to take a break from studying for the bar, that we'd hear jokes about "the rule of perpetuities" in our lox tasting. Oy! Sorry Paul! Good Luck!
Imagine a very, very chic woman, dressed to the nines, jet black and cobalt blue hair. Like a cross between Coco Chanel and Chryssie Hynde - high heels, tailored pants, crisp white blouse. Oh my god. I wanted to follow her and just be in her presence. She’s more chic, turned more heads on her morning bagel run than I do on my very best date night. At half her age. Her stories, you can only imagine. I’m sure there are some amazing tales in that life.
And stories are plentiful when you go to a Jewish Deli or Appetizing store. Even when you take an intro class on the world of lox. There are many reasons to go but just as many to visit their website. See Russ & Daughters. Buy, listen, watch, eat.
The only thing you'll be hungry for is more stories.
Took my niece and her boyfriend Paul with us to the Astor Center for a class with another recovering attorney, Mark Russ Federman (third generation). Little did I know when we invited Paul to take a break from studying for the bar, that we'd hear jokes about "the rule of perpetuities" in our lox tasting. Oy! Sorry Paul! Good Luck!
Traveling, Tourism, Environment
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Eating local. Traveling great distances - at the cost of a huge carbon footprint - to do so. This "eco-friendly" tourism is hot, but is it just greenwashing? Stay tuned.
Greenwashing is now in the OED Oxford English Dictionary. It describes the whitewashing of regular old PR and marketing with the theme du jour "going green". I've brought you news of the popularity of culinary travel and invited you to explore the paradox of being an "environmentally conscience traveler". Seems this paradox is still making headlines.
Here's the latest news from Canada. Traveling to eat locally.Think about that for a minute.
Eco - foodie- tours that teach you about the food cycle are climbing in popularity. Up close and personal with your food. Care to examine a big steamy pile of droppings on a hiking trail to see what the local big game are eating? Then later at dinner, see if you can discern their diet by the flavor of the meat?
This may be extreme, but there are a couple of interesting facts tied to that experience...here's an interesting fact:
I wonder if the OED includes the McD's term "hamburgler" in its recent lexicon updates. Seems the recent editors and writers cannot resist it. See the New York Mag here and the Improper Bostonian, too.
If the Los Angeles Times is correct, and Americans are eating less fish*, maybe we're in for more burgled beef words. Wonder what the greenwashing will be on the carbon footprint of beef?
Coming up: The Low Carbon Diet.
* this year's consumption is on the decline as against last year. Still, with our love of meat, we're just third in fish consumption behind China and Japan.
Here's the latest news from Canada. Traveling to eat locally.Think about that for a minute.
Eco - foodie- tours that teach you about the food cycle are climbing in popularity. Up close and personal with your food. Care to examine a big steamy pile of droppings on a hiking trail to see what the local big game are eating? Then later at dinner, see if you can discern their diet by the flavor of the meat?
This may be extreme, but there are a couple of interesting facts tied to that experience...here's an interesting fact:
- Post 9/11 tourists rank "local cuisine" the biggest factor in choosing a travel destination. More than parks, mountains, casinos.
- 17% of travelers last year indicated they were taking part in culinary or wine-related activities and 60% planned to in the near future.
I wonder if the OED includes the McD's term "hamburgler" in its recent lexicon updates. Seems the recent editors and writers cannot resist it. See the New York Mag here and the Improper Bostonian, too.
If the Los Angeles Times is correct, and Americans are eating less fish*, maybe we're in for more burgled beef words. Wonder what the greenwashing will be on the carbon footprint of beef?
Coming up: The Low Carbon Diet.
* this year's consumption is on the decline as against last year. Still, with our love of meat, we're just third in fish consumption behind China and Japan.
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Once again our farmers market introduces us to something wonderful.
Tonight it was purslane. It's more likely to be referred to as a weed, by many. This little green succulent superfood is going to be the next big thing. Tell everyone you heard it here first.
Why the bold prediction?
Put purslane on your next sandwich. Toss it into potato salad. Steam it as you would spinach.
Just promise you'll try it. You won't be disappointed. Hey, if Thomas Keller is serving it in his restaurants, what does that tell you?
Why the bold prediction?
- It's delicious.
- It's truly a nutritional superfood.
- It's a pesky weed to many a gardener, so you only have to find someone who's getting rid of their weeds and a perfectly symbiotic relationship is established.
- Farmers also need to get rid of it. Many are actually finding they can grow it as a cash crop.
- As a succulent, this little dynamo is perfect for the water starved areas of the world.
Put purslane on your next sandwich. Toss it into potato salad. Steam it as you would spinach.
Just promise you'll try it. You won't be disappointed. Hey, if Thomas Keller is serving it in his restaurants, what does that tell you?
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
....but we rise to it, with the help of some fine espresso.
Of tools, tales and cucurbits.
I've written about gadgets, tools, trucs tips.
One tool I have not had all these years is an inexpensive one that gives great pleasure with very little effort. It can help wake you up, or keep a good night going. Guessed it yet?
Bialetti Espresso maker. I never knew how easy it is to make a great cup of espresso. OMG life as we know it has changed.
Well after an espresso, anything seems possible.
How about a new cocktail? How about some Tzatziki? Lettuce wraps? Watermelon salad?
Yes, yes, yes, and yes.
Take a look around and you'll find not one but three cucurbit related recipes lurking here.
Cool as a cucumber, and rarin' to go!
I've written about gadgets, tools, trucs tips.
One tool I have not had all these years is an inexpensive one that gives great pleasure with very little effort. It can help wake you up, or keep a good night going. Guessed it yet?
Bialetti Espresso maker. I never knew how easy it is to make a great cup of espresso. OMG life as we know it has changed.
Well after an espresso, anything seems possible.
How about a new cocktail? How about some Tzatziki? Lettuce wraps? Watermelon salad?
Yes, yes, yes, and yes.
Take a look around and you'll find not one but three cucurbit related recipes lurking here.
Cool as a cucumber, and rarin' to go!
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Acclaimed S/O/L/E chef Peter Hoffman emphasizes seasonal, farm-fresh ingredients at his second restaurant, Back Forty.
The Back Forty Boils Crab
Let others debate the “sustainable versus local” issues. Anyone graduating past Philosophy 101 knows that “versus” is a nice construct for debate, but a lousy rule for real life. To quote Violet, in the Pulitzer winning August: Osage County, “The world is round, get over it.” To quote me, go see August. Now.
Back to The Back Forty.
Chef Peter Hoffman once redefining casual dining at Savoy takes the concept in a new direction here. He takes it to the farm. And he takes the farm to Alphabet City. Right in the Lower East Side Manhattanites can dine on farm-to-table meals and shop a small farm market in-house.
He’s also bringing seasonality to the menu. From summer beef and corn to Maryland Crab Boil, diners can discuss with author Betty Fussell the issues of corn and beef. To a Maryland girl, nothing says summer like a pot of steamed crabs, a bottle of beer (okay, several) and a table covered in newspaper.
Marisa, Paul and everyone else in NYC this summer, get over there now. The beloved blue crabs have been diminishing for a while now and the news is grim for their future. Get ‘em while you can, even if it’s in a Manhattan restaurant.
Let others debate the “sustainable versus local” issues. Anyone graduating past Philosophy 101 knows that “versus” is a nice construct for debate, but a lousy rule for real life. To quote Violet, in the Pulitzer winning August: Osage County, “The world is round, get over it.” To quote me, go see August. Now.
Back to The Back Forty.
Chef Peter Hoffman once redefining casual dining at Savoy takes the concept in a new direction here. He takes it to the farm. And he takes the farm to Alphabet City. Right in the Lower East Side Manhattanites can dine on farm-to-table meals and shop a small farm market in-house.
He’s also bringing seasonality to the menu. From summer beef and corn to Maryland Crab Boil, diners can discuss with author Betty Fussell the issues of corn and beef. To a Maryland girl, nothing says summer like a pot of steamed crabs, a bottle of beer (okay, several) and a table covered in newspaper.
Marisa, Paul and everyone else in NYC this summer, get over there now. The beloved blue crabs have been diminishing for a while now and the news is grim for their future. Get ‘em while you can, even if it’s in a Manhattan restaurant.
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
Cordova Alaska hosts chefs, writers for a Taste of Cordova. On the menu: salmon, moose, and plenty of beer.
Not only did I get to tour a salmon cannery, talk to fishermen, conservationists and see a glacier calving, I was a guest judge in the Taste of Cordova. I dined on dishes offered by local cooks and chefs and we spent as many of our meals as we could sampling local fare. From sourdough to reindeer sausage. And then there was the salmon. And the moose.
Home with a belly, head, and heart full. Good people, hard-working characters, fun-loving hosts to us city kids, they were patient as could be with our endless (many of mine foolish) questions. Where else would I be able to discuss how one shoots a 900 lb moose, butchers it, gets it into the boat and home to the freezer. With a woman, popping popcorn under a sign that says "honor system: 50 cents."
After seeing her sign in the window of her shop, "Sue's Knives", "I got my moose!" I had to ask her about it. When would I ever get such a chance? So, what kind of gun do you use to shoot a moose? "A pretty big one," laughed Sue.
Then she showed me her pictures. Unbelieveable, amazing. I have dined on moose sliders now, and have terrific homemade moose sausage in my fridge. A gift from the brother of our host.
And salmon? Wait until you hear about the salmon.
For now, read about how burgers are enjoying glory everywhere and peruse that gorgeous salmon menu.
Home with a belly, head, and heart full. Good people, hard-working characters, fun-loving hosts to us city kids, they were patient as could be with our endless (many of mine foolish) questions. Where else would I be able to discuss how one shoots a 900 lb moose, butchers it, gets it into the boat and home to the freezer. With a woman, popping popcorn under a sign that says "honor system: 50 cents."
After seeing her sign in the window of her shop, "Sue's Knives", "I got my moose!" I had to ask her about it. When would I ever get such a chance? So, what kind of gun do you use to shoot a moose? "A pretty big one," laughed Sue.
Then she showed me her pictures. Unbelieveable, amazing. I have dined on moose sliders now, and have terrific homemade moose sausage in my fridge. A gift from the brother of our host.
And salmon? Wait until you hear about the salmon.
For now, read about how burgers are enjoying glory everywhere and peruse that gorgeous salmon menu.
Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Jacqueline Church
And the Lakota agree. Buffalo is good eats. Especially when it's this buffalo.
What's for dinner? Something quick, lean and tasty? How about buffalo?
In this week's post I share my intro to this native species that was nearly extinct. Why eat it then? Because by supporting the farmers who raise this buffalo, we are creating a market for its continued stewardship.
The folks at Wild Idea Buffalo keep grass-fed, free-roaming, hormone-free buffalo. They even harvest it sustainably. Read more about it here.
To learn about the Sustainable Harvest Alliance, see the website, here.
In this week's post I share my intro to this native species that was nearly extinct. Why eat it then? Because by supporting the farmers who raise this buffalo, we are creating a market for its continued stewardship.
The folks at Wild Idea Buffalo keep grass-fed, free-roaming, hormone-free buffalo. They even harvest it sustainably. Read more about it here.
To learn about the Sustainable Harvest Alliance, see the website, here.
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