Ego and Food

Humble Food, Not-so-Humble Critics

© Jacqueline Church

Jan 4, 2008

Good movie, good food, bad critic.


Ratatouille is a fabulous movie that captures the power of food to transport. It's also a dish from the South of France which exemplifies the braising technique.

One of the chief characters in the movie is the critic Anton Ego. He notes that critics make their living by thrashing restauranteurs and chefs. In a delightful life-imitating-art drama unfolding in Minneapolis, critic Andrew Zimmern who can't be bothered to get up from his desk to review 16 new restaurants is taken to task by a chef and restaurant owner.

It's a rare glimpse into the world of restaurant reviews and an example of thee "man bites dog" headline we salivate for. Click here for my full opinion on the saga.

To read about braising and how it works, see this week's column: The Beauty of Braising.


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