The Origins of “High Tea”
We associate the custom of afternoon tea or “high tea” with the British. Their fondness for tea is well known. But just what is high tea? When and where did this custom start? For an amusing side story about Brits and tea see Those People and Their Tea.
While “high tea” sounds quite posh, a more accurate term is “afternoon tea.” High tea referred to the high (dining room) table at which an evening meal of meats, breads, cheese and whatever might be served. “Low tea” was, ironically, the more posh tea being served to upper classes in their drawing rooms at lower tables. Low tea may also have been distinguished by less substantial fare.
What we now call high tea or afternoon tea most likely originated in the 1700s or 1800s in England. Many have speculated on its origins. My favorite is that a “queen consort” of King Charles II of England, the Portuguese Catherine of Braganza, brought her own tea chest to England. Unlike Portugal, England was still a country where ale was the drink of choice. It was safer than water, and more plentiful. The king’s consort introduced the afternoon tea custom to the English.
What the upper classes and royalty did, the other classes followed. Soon, everyone was eager to partake in the sophisticated custom of this afternoon ritual.
Another story places the origin of afternoon tea with a later royal who had a “sinking feeling” between the morning and evening meals that were typical of the day. She is said to have had her ladies-in-waiting slip her a few snacks from the kitchen. Enjoying a pot of tea and some nibbles in her boudoir, she unwittingly started the trend of “taking tea” in the afternoon.
Still others link the necessity of the light meal to the crushing confines of corsets and such, requiring more small meals than was the custom back in the day.
One of today’s best affordable luxuries
Whatever the actual origins, this custom of the “afternoon tea” is one of those affordable luxuries more of us should try to enjoy. The Windsor Arms Hotel in Toronto is a fantastic introduction to the custom, should you find yourself in that fair city. A grande dame who'd fallen somewhat in status, the Windsor Arms is now spiffed up and enjoying its new-found popularity with jet setters.
The discovery of Devon cream at the Windsor was a revelation. Astonished at its decadence, the question naturally arose: Why we don’t all have tea, and eat like this, especially with Devon cream, every day?
Without missing a beat the server replied: “Devon cream has a minimum of 50-80% butterfat, ma’am.” Oh.
Typical Fare
Afternoon tea is served furing the period between lunch and dinner. Generally, the menu allows guests to choose from a selection of teas as well as a variety of accompaniments. One almost always has an option that includes a starter of a flute of champagne or a glass of sherry.
The food arrives on a tiered caddy that may include sweet and savory choices. For a lighter version of tea you might just have sweets. Scones (often warm from the oven), jam tarts, and precious little cakes. And of course, Devon cream.
A more substantial afternoon tea (known as “meat tea” in the old days – yum) includes savory sandwiches. You might have roast beef with horseradish, shrimp, tuna and egg salad, ham.
The more substantial menus really are a meal. You will not be overly eager to get to make an 8 pm dinner reservation if you’ve just finished a 4 pm full afternoon tea.
The beauty of the ritual
Part of the luxury of this tradition is the service. Real china, real silver, attentive servers. The warming of the pot, the straining of the tea leaves. You may be seated next to a fire, perched on finely upholstered furniture. Whatever the setting, each experience allows the diner to feel transported to another world.
The tea choices alone are astounding. Often you’ll have an option of a house blend. There will be spicy, robust teas and light, fragrant teas. One of the most popular teas is Earl Grey. The oil of bergamot orange (extracted from the peel of citrus bergamia or Citrus aurantium bergamia), is used to scent black tea. Bergamot orange is a small pear-shaped sour orange, most associated with southern Italy.
Tea Facts:
- Tea is hot. Last year the tea industry reported $822 million in sales.
- Americans consumed over 2.2 billion gallons of tea in 2005.
- 80% or more tea consumed in the US is iced.
- Teas may be black (such as English Breakfast), green (such as sencha), white - the least processed, newest leaves (silver needle, for example) or herbal (such as chamomile). Each variety has distinct characteristics. Each has preferred brewing temperatures.
- Tea’s health benefits continue to be discovered including: preventive or protective roles against various cancers.
- Tea is rich in antioxidants, polyphenols, and catechins (three times more prevalent in green tea than black.) Catechins have both antioxidant, anti-inflammatory qualities and may stimulate the immune system.
Tea Resources
For info on afternoon tea in Boston: see The Lowdown on High Tea.
Toronto (“GTA” to those in the know):
Tealish Queen Street West purveyor of 150 superb and exotic teas (198 Walnut Ave 416-203-3301)
King Edward Hotel - lovely afternoon tea.
Windsor Arms - beautiful, old world experience.
In the Toronto area there are also alternative settings for tea including country estates like Langdon Hall to funky cafes. The Red Tea Box serves bento boxes and fair-trade, single estate teas.
A little further afield:
The Prince of Wales – This noted Niagara-on-the-Lake venue serves a substantial afternoon tea in a Victorian drawing room that will have you looking over your shoulder for the Mad Hatter.
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