Vermouth, Herbs and Cocktails
In high summer, ravenous delight with Farmers' Markets, herbs, berries drives us to drink. Even now, in the dead of winter, It’s high time (you'll pardon the pun) to talk about cocktails with herbal pedigree. Yes, cocktails. Gourmet doesn't stop at edge of the plate, let's look at what's to drink with dinner.
A proper cocktail or an aperitif is the only civilized way to begin a good meal. Or, to end one. Or, to perk up a hot and hazy afternoon. For the afternoon drinks see tantalizing recipes in the LA Times piece by Donna Deane, “Herbal Cocktails, Anyone?"
Proper Martinis & Vermouth
A proper Martini must be bone dry, but if you promise to use only one Vermouth, some variation from this rule is allowed. VYA Vermouth from Quady Vineyards in California is that exception. Vya Vermouth is an artisanal blend of botanicals and wine that results in something so unlike the others you've tried, you will be astounded. While dry Vermouth may be used in a Martini, sweet Vermouth is used in Manhattans (along with Bourbon) or Rob Roys (with Scotch, just set aside the single malts for your favorite guests and use the JW Red someone gave you last Christmas, please.)
One of the most enjoyable meals is a simple Martini followed by a med-rare, dry-aged Delmonico. No less than our beloved Julia Child once attributed her longevity to “red meat and gin.” Need we say more? Okay, if you insist...
Aromatized Wines: Coming into Their Own.
One writer calls Vya "the Stephen Colbert of Vermouth." His observation: "it has edge and personality and takes over all conversation." Another writer, Jim White (see My Favorite New Vermouth) favors this aperitif: half Vya Sweet Vermouth and half Vya Dry Vermouth, over ice. We concur!
Historically, Vermouth was a product of doctoring inferior wine with botanicals and sweet flavors to enhance it. Even the name "Vermouth" is derived from the German word for wormwood, "Wermut". Wormwood was a medicinal plant most famous for its storied history in Absinthe. While wormwood is not used in Vermouth production today, the essence of Vermouth still retains that botanical quality.
* Sweet Vermouth is characterized by the stimulating balance of bitter and sweet. Cinnamon, galangal, nutmeg, gentian mixed with Orange Muscat, Colombard, and Valdepena wines are the basis.
* Extra-dry Vermouth is characterized by the herbal qualities of lavender, sage, orris and linden in a base of Orange Muscat and Colombard wines. Winemaker Quady encourages us to imagine a forest after the rain. That cool green scent is the essence of his Vya extra-dry Vermouth.
The Boozy Gourmet's Pantry
A quality aromatized wine like Vya is an essential pantry item for good cooks. For more ideas about cooking with alcohol see “Cooking with Booze”, reviewed by Mary Luz Mejia.
Some essential food-n-booze tips, including Vya uses:
- Vya Dry Vermouth to deglaze aromatics as base for chicken soup. The herb-infused wine adds a light but complex backdrop for the soup. Likewise for risotto.
- Add Vya Dry Vermouth to the pot when steaming clams or mussels. The herbal flavors will be a noticeable, if subtle, improvement over the use of white wine alone.
- Using Rainwater Madeira to deglaze the roasting pan imparts richness to the base for gravy.
- Bourbon - essential to orange chocolate truffles and Thanksgiving Sweet potatoes.
- Vodka cream tomato sauce when you want to feel like a Czar.
- Amontillado - the secret ingredient to perfect Chinese black mushrooms. Amontillado in Chinese Mushrooms? Try it once, you'll be hooked.
En fin, Dessert
Martini glasses may hold chocolate or sweets, when they are for dessert. A few favorites:
* Try making a granita with fresh watermelon, berries or honeydewl. Add the frozen fruit to St Germain or Vodka and you've got a lovely, light and grown-up frozen dessert.
* And a little Vya Sweet Vermouth drizzled over orange-cardamom sorbetto is divine.
* A little Kahlua drizzled over coffee ice cream.
* Macerate strawberries with some good platinum Tequila.
* Lemoncello made from Sorrento Lemons is lovely served on its own as an after dinner drink. It can also be used in a cookie recipe similar to Mexican Wedding Cookies, or in an icing. Try adding a bit to the cream cheese frosting for pineapple or carrot cakes.
Write me here for the Lemoncello cookie recipe.
- For more on Sorrento and Meyer lemons see: this on Meyer Lemon Olive Oil.
- For masterful use of herbs, botanicals in luscious gelatos and sorbettos see Capogiro Gelato Artisans.
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