Razor clams from Alaska inspire a fresh seafood pasta. Easy technique, perfect for a mid-week meal. Build your own pasta with clams, shrimp or mussels.
Razor clams from Alaska are the inspiration for a fresh seafood pasta dinner. This is so easy, it’s perfect for a mid-week meal. The basic recipe, ingredients and techniques are applicable to many types of dishes and can be varied to suit your taste and the contents of your pantry. Linguine con vongole, Shrimp Scampi, Mussels Fra Diavolo. With this basic technique any of these can be on your table in no time!
Is Scampi a Shrimp or a Recipe?
The origins of “Shrimp Scampi” are debated but most sources agree on a few key ingredients: shrimp, garlic, olive oil, parsley and often, breadcrumbs. Generally the dish is prepared under the broiler. Today, “scampi” is a term applied to many things cooked in a garlic and olive oil sauce under the broiler. A few basic ingredients are easily translated to a quick stove-top meal which is better for warm weather cooking. The techniques are outlined here, along with instructions to make your own quick and tasty meal in minutes.
If it’s a “Colossal Shrimp” is it big or small?
First, let’s talk shrimp. You might call someone a “shrimp” if they're small. The oxymoron "colossal shrimp" might therefore seem ridiculous. Unlike "military intelligence", however, "colossal shrimp" actually makes sense. So what the heck is a colossal shrimp?
Shrimp are sold by size according to how many comprise a pound. For example: 16/20 means one pound would contain 16-20 shrimp. There are classes that most of us never see in the stores from tiny shrimp to extra colossal at about 10/lb. Prawns or Scampi are terms that are sometimes used to describe specific shellfish in the shrimp family, but are used interchangeably to describe common shrimp as well. Often, true "scampi" are a shellfish that resembles a cross between a shrimp and a lobster. They resemble a large shrimp with small claws.
Whatever your preference, or budget dictates, know this: shrimp are a wonderful source of good clean protein and today, even good frozen shrimp are not hard to find. If you can find good fresh shrimp, especially with the heads still on, you will enjoy a much more flavorful final dish.
For this dish, I would select a jumbo or colossal shrimp, prawn or scampi. Our Alaskan colossal shrimp were 6-8/lb. Mighty mighty.
Clams
Clams can also be cooked in this method. Mussels could easily be substituted or added as well. Use all three, add a healthy dash of red pepper and some tomatoes and you've got a decent "fra diavolo" ("of the devil" ) dish."
Razor clams are so named due to their long narrrow shape. They resemble straight razors barbers use. They are more commonly found on the West coast of the US or in Chinatown fishmongers. We got ours through an Alaska seafood purveyor that catches, flash freezes and sends products right to your door.
Clams come in many varieties and sizes. In New England we tend to favor the “steamer” clam, especially for a clambake or lobster boil. Steamer clams are more oblong in shape and have a soft shell and a long neck that protrudes from the shell. They must be peeled and swished, first in broth then in butter, a terrific summertime ritual.
Manila clams which are smaller and sometimes called Mahogany clams, are well-suited to Asian recipes. Quahogs (“co-hogs”) are best known as the giant clams in New England-- “Stuffies”. They are large hardshell clams which are typically shelled, chopped, combined with breadcrumbs, Linguiça, red and green pepper, then baked. These are also excellent in chowders.
Mussels can be prepared in a similar fashion. A good soak and scrub will ensure the absence of grit or sand. A can of good San Marzano tomatoes or even a couple good fresh tomatoes, along with some red chili flakes and you've got mussles in "the Devil's style."
For our dinner tonight, we’re going to stick to hard shell clams, preferably cherrystones or littlenecks. While traditionally, one would make this dish under a broiler, using a stovetop method enables you to cut back on oil and keep the kitchen cooler. Two benefits in the summer months.
What you should have on hand:
- Pasta,
- Garlic,
- Vermouth or white wine,
- Onions or shallots,
- Parsley,
- Pasta (for this preparation traditionally one uses linguine, cappelini or chitarra),
- Tomatoes, if doing "fra diavolo" dish.
What you might need to pick up:
- Shrimp, clams, or mussels.
- Wine
- Lemon
- Good crusty loaf of bread.
Optional additions:
- Garlic scapes
- Capers
- Onion
- Basil
- Saffron
- Tomatoes
- Red Chili flakes or chopped fresh hot pepper.
Technique:
Mise en place:
- Put the pasta water on to boil. Be sure to use a large pot. Salt heavily as it comes to the boil.
- Clean clams, shrimp or mussels. (All are best if cooked in shell. If you prefer to shell the shrimp, save the shells in the freezer for stock. If using clams or mussels, scrub and clean, discard any with cracked shells.)
- Chop onions, garlic, garlic scapes, parsley or other herbs.
- Juice and zest a fresh organic lemon.
Prepare:
- Place equal amounts of butter and good quality olive oil in a pan over medium heat.
- Sweat onions, S & P. Cook under lower heat than Saute, so as to prevent carmelization in the pan.
- Add clams, shrimp or mussels.
- Add garlic, do not let it brown.
- Add wine or vermouth.
- Add lemon juice, saffron, herbs.
- Let sauce thicken a bit. If you'd like you can add bits of cold butter ("monte a beurre") to thicken the sauce a bit.
Drain pasta. Return to pot, toss with sauce. Taste, add S&P as needed, add lemon zest , more chopped fresh parsley, and grated cheese, if you like.
Serve with a good un-oaked chardonnay, clean sauvignon blanc or a pinot grigio.
If doing "fra diavolo" omit lemon juice and zest, though a bit of orange zest could be used to really nice effect. Add tomatoes and basil at step 6 above.
Mangia bene!
