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Okonomiyaki

Japanese Pizza

Oct 17, 2006 Jacqueline Church

Pizza does incite passion. Japanese pizza, may or may not. I'll take Okonomiyaki over pizza with scrambled eggs, any day. But what the heck is donair? Umami?

When I wrote Pizza, that's Amore!, I said, everyone has an opinion. Discussions have been lively and interesting, ranging from recommendations on the best spots far and wide, pizza ordering etiquette, and favored toppings.

Japanese Pizza?

A couple of readers raised the questions about “Japanese pizza”. I thought it might be worth looking into. First off, there are really two things going on here. One is the penchant the Japanese have to take something from another culture, like pizza, and turn it on its head. Such as adding scrambled eggs on pizza. This was Akendle’s observation, it’s spot-on.

When I was in Japan I noticed many odd mash-ups like this. The funny thing to me was how oblivious the Japanese are to the strangeness of the combinations. I prefer to go native, as Sbechte78 did. I’ll eat what they’ve been doing right for centuries.

The second “Japanese Pizza” question is actually a dish from Osaka called Okonomiyaki.This dish bears nothing in common with pizza at all but the round, flat shape. As reader Sbechtel78 says, is more like an omelet, though the batter is probably rice or wheat flour as a base. We were treated to a fabulous dinner in Vancouver at an Okonomiyaki-ya on our first anniversary trip. Maybe it stems from the teeny-tiny kitchens in most Japanese apartments, but many of the meals are eaten out and they often provide a fun, social experience. In our Vancouver Okonomiyaki-ya, there was a large flat griddle in an open kitchen. The cooking is done for you after you select your combination of ingredients. In some places, the diner does his or her own cooking on table top griddles.

So now you know about Japanese pizza, think of a savory, fat crepe, or a pancake. Round it is, Pizza, it’s not.

If you want to read more about Okonomiyaki see an excellent primer in Bento.

Turning now to Halifax

Another reader, Rosemary, mentioned “donair” in a unique twist to the pizza discussion. In my recent Toronto tour I saw a place that had “Donair” in the sign. I went in, excited to learn more about this Northern pizza parlor mystery. What I found were two pizza makers who’d inherited the sign. They explained that it’s really shwarma or gyro type of meat sandwich, donair being the Turkish name equivalent. I believe the donair sauce is like the tsatsiki (yogurt, onion, garlic) type of sauce for the shwarma?

Umami - the common thread

What all these dishes, except maybe the scrambled egg pizza, have in common is their savory nature. There’s a word that’s hotly debated in the food world now, Japanese in origin: umami. It’s referred to as the so-called fifth taste.

The “known” taste sensations are: sweet, salty, bitter, and sour. Of course, the Japanese have known about the savory taste sensation, umami, for some time. That perhaps is a topic for another day.

The copyright of the article Okonomiyaki in Gourmet Food is owned by Jacqueline Church. Permission to republish Okonomiyaki in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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Comments

Oct 19, 2006 8:41 AM
Cindy McGlynn :
There's a terrific little boite in Toronto called Okonomi House. I bet anyone who's been up here for the Toronto Film Fest knows it as it's right beside Festival headquarters....

I've been enjoying the lovely Japanese pancakey-omelettes for years. Here, they cover them in what can really only be called barbecue sauce and serve with a dollop of... is it really just mayo?

A true mashup of fast-food cultures. They cost about $6... are plenty satisfying and very tasty.
Oct 20, 2006 2:59 PM
Jacqueline Church :
Yes, the sauces are often a Japanese brand of mayo ("Kewpie" is one of the top sellers) and something like Tonkatsu sauce. Tonkatsu sauce is similar in flavor to A-1 Steak Sauce, it's sweet and savory dark sauce. I'm definitely going to try to squeeze in the Okonomiyaki place in November. Thanks for the tip!

Jackie
Oct 23, 2006 11:33 AM
Cindy McGlynn :
Yes, it's a perfect place for a pleasant lunch. Right behind Manulife Centre on Charles Street - south of Bloor, west of Yonge.

Okonomi House Restaurant
23 Charles Street West
Toronto, ON M4Y 2R4, Canada
(416) 925-6176

Yum!
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