James Beard Inductee: Dorothy Cann HamiltonWho's Who Honoree - On Wanderlust, Recessions and a Perfect PeachApr 13, 2009 Jacqueline Church
Founder of The French Culinary Institute joins accomplished culinarians on Who's Who list. Dorothy Cann Hamilton shares insights, laughs, lessons.
Dorothy Cann Hamilton on the occasion of her induction into the Who's Who pantheon of the James Beard Foundation, agreed to an interview. It isn't every day one gets to chat with such an accomplished leader in the culinary world. One of her great assets is the ability to make one feel you are on common ground and this was evident during our conversation. Like all good educators, she also has the ability to leave you inspired with a sense of possibility. The James Beard Foundation and AwardsThe Foundation's "mission is to celebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s culinary heritage and diversity in order to elevate our appreciation of the culinary arts." Named after the renowned gastronome, traveler, author, teacher, and food ambassador James Beard, the Foundation's annual awards are often described as the Oscars of the culinary world. Hamilton shares some traits with the late Beard including his wanderlust and his love for teaching. It's fitting that she be inducted into his Foundation's list of "Who's Who" at this time. After all, it might be one of the few honors Hamilton hasn't already won. (see below) Recently a toast went up amongst four food and wine writers to "useless" Liberal Arts degrees - English, Sociology, and such came to mind when Hamilton described her path to the founding of this leading school. Though she hails from Brooklyn, Hamilton had a strong case of wanderlust from an early age. She followed it to England where she earned her undergraduate degree with Honours from the University of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. It was there that she discovered another passion, French food. She became friends with the French girls in her school and together they'd seek out the best food, especially on holidays. Hamilton later went on to earn an M.B.A. from New York University. Hidden Opportunities and Seeing the World through FoodDuring her education she came to discover France through its food. After school, she wasn't quite ready to come home. The realities of the war and the recession at that time (early 70's) meant there was little opportunity for her, so she traveled more, joining the Peace Corps. In Thailand she said her "eyes had gotten wide" and she learned more about her strong desire to see the world through food and to share that. Eventually the Peace Corps assignment ended but things at home were not much improved. She took a job as her father's receptionist at the trade school he ran. Little else was available at the time. An interesting thing happened to her there. She discovered she loved the students and the trade school milieu. Eventually she rose up the ranks learning the ins and outs of running a school. She is quick to point out this was not what she had envisioned herself doing. Also, that "but for the recession" she would not have found herself working for her father as a receptionist. She uses her own experience to encourage students now. "You never know what opportunity might exist in a recession." Now the school boasts a world class curriculum, an International reputation and an unparalleled faculty. The focus is immersion and practical training, "layers of quality" from the quality of the product, the student teacher ratio (12:1); quality of the equipment, the instructors, and staff. Classic Technique, Contemporary TrainingFrom the beginning, when Hamilton purchased the curriculum from a top French school the focus has been on fundamental, classic technique. Yet the curriculum is contemporary, training chefs to work in the evolving food scene. Dan Barber is an alumni and the farm-to-table and "green" focus is evident. From hosting events such as the Sustainable Sushi Party to composting "maybe 100 tons a week" to joint projects with green markets, the FCI is incorporating these principles now. They implemented a "Four Seasons" curriculum maybe ahead of its time. Alice Waters was a Dean for 5 years and they've mentored organizations by sharing offices with fledgling Edibles and Slow Food organizations. They even have faculty leading the way with Culinary Technology. Hamilton very much sees FCI as innovating rather than codifying culinary education. She also conceived of the PBS Series "A Chef's Story." In 2007, Hamilton launched the FCI's sister school, The Italian Culinary Academy and its roster of intensive courses for cooks of all levels The ICA uses the same rigorous curricula and immersion method of teaching as the FCI. Guilty Pleasures and Back to BeardAlum David Chang in an interview regarding his Character Approved Award, recently admitted his guilty food pleasure is mechanically separated meat, like chicken nuggets. He also outed Alum Wylie Dufresne as having a weakness for Kraft Singles. And what of our esteemed Ms. Hamilton's guilty food pleasure? While immediately offering a perfectly ripe peach as the best thing she could think of, when pressed on the "guilty" aspect she confessed... "...an entire baguette, really perfect one, with good butter and a glass of wine." Fitting enough. It was, after all, James Beard who said: “Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” Dorothy Cann Hamilton's Prior Awards:
Congratulations Dorothy! Especially for those of us whose paths were not conventional, you are an inspiration, indeed.
The copyright of the article James Beard Inductee: Dorothy Cann Hamilton in Gourmet Food is owned by Jacqueline Church. Permission to republish James Beard Inductee: Dorothy Cann Hamilton in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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