Heard of Shagbark Hickory Syrup?
Food Fashion Trend: Syrup from Hickory Trees Now Sold at Harrods
Never heard of Shagbark Hickory Syrup? Now you have and you're in good company. This uniquely American product was known to Native Americans in the Eastern US but the art of making syrup was nearly lost.
Discovering Hickory Syrup
Discovered Shagbark Hickory Syrup about a month ago - love those in-flight magazines. The thought of hickory smoked ham or bacon, combined with maple was intriguing. Sample was requested and soon arrived : a cute little 1 oz or so bottle along with a brochure. Both of which were set aside, until the next time something maple-y or maple-friendly was on the menu.
A gentle reminder came via email from the producer “have you tried it yet?” Oops. Bad form. Next, it became clear that Spring is on its way/here. Maple Syrup season upon us, it was time to do a little research and write that article.
That one on the hickory maple syrup. Oops. Turns out – no maple involved here.
Shagbark Hickory: The Un-Maple Syrup
Syrup from a tree? Yes.
From a Maple? No.
Think of all the trees out there. Only stands to reason that one might be able to get syrup from more than one kind. If anyone of you out there beyond the Brown County, Indiana perimeters knows of another syrup than maple, your next bottle's on me.
This tree (Carya ovata) is a type of Hickory that has a shaggy bark that sheds. Wood from hickory trees is known for it's strength and it's aromatic qualities. The trees grow from the Eastern US through the Midwest. Native Americans knew how to use this bark to render this fine syrup. The US Forest Service indicates that the nuts of the tree are second only to pecans for their potential contributions. Very sweet, and in cultivars, easier to crack. But it's not the nut, not even the sap that is responsible for the syrup. It's actually in the bark.
When an old local tells you his Great-great Grandmother had a recipe...listen!
That's how Gordon Jones and Sherrie Yarling learned about the treasure trove on their property. They'd moved from Florida to Indiana to cultivate mushrooms. (Smart money says the mushrooms have long since faded from their business model). Chefs across the country are discovering the uses of the syrup. Even Harrod's in London carries it now.
The couple producing this incredibly unique syrup literally stumbled upon the notion by chatting with a local man collecting firewood. Learning from him that the Native Americans had used it to produce syrup, the couple tried a couple of times without success. Then a bargain was struck: more firewood for his family recipe.
And we have that family, the wood collector and Gordon and Sherrie to thank for Americana in a bottle.
Many Uses, Many Chefs
Shagbark Hickory Syrup has a slightly smoky, slightly nutty flavor. It does not have an overwhelming sweetness nor an overwhelming hickory flavor. It can be used for desserts, roasts and breakfast, too.
Try mixing Shagbark Hickory Syrup with a touch of Scotch bonnet hot sauce, a splash of Bourbon, splash of OJ for a great basting sauce. Tonight turkey drumsticks were roasted with it. Delicious.
The late, great Julia Child, upon receiving a birthday gift of the syrup used it with Bourbon to glaze ribs. Rick Bayless, Sara Moulton and others sing the praises.
See Gordon Jones & Sherrie Yarling at HickoryWorks.com. The website has free recipes, products and a book of additional recipes. They've begun to produce another syrup from poplars and also BBQ sauce (currently sold out.) Hickory smoked sea salt is the newest offering. But you already know how to smoke your own salt!
