Granita - Summer's Easiest Dessert

Granitas, savory or sweet, add refreshing flair to summer menus.

As the mercury rises, don't forget granitas. The easiest of summer desserts require no special equipment, no special machines. When it's too hot to bake brownies, put your pan to a better use. Make an icy cool treat.

Granitas are enjoyed all over Italy and originated near Mt. Etna. Colonizing Arabs used Mt. Etna's snow to create the first granitas a thousand years ago. Lemons, coffee and jasmine are traditional flavors there. “Sarbat” is thought to be the precursor to today's “sherbet”. Even today you can enjoy a “Sherbeth Festival, “ in Sicily during October.

Unlike ice cream, sherbets and granitas don't contain dairy products. This makes them both easier to make and lighter in fat and calories, potentially. A granita is made with liquid such as fruit juice, wine or coffee, mixed with sugar and maybe other flavorings and then frozen. As it freezes, the mixture is agitated, by mixing with a whisk every 30 minutes or so, until you have a slush of ice crystals. Sorbets and ice creams are smoother whereas granitas are like tiny ice flakes. That's what makes them so refreshing.

Technique

One of the best things about granitas is how simple they are to make. The easiest way is to take that 8x8 glass brownie pan and combine your liquid and flavorings, then place in the freezer. Go check email or flip through a magazine. Come back and scrape it up with the tines of a fork. Place back in the freezer.

Do this a three to six times, depending on volume and ingredients, and you'll end up with a perfect granita. That's it.

An alternate method is to freeze the liquid in ice cube trays then buzz them in a blender or let them thaw slightly and use a hand mixer or food processor. The tiny icy flakes are a most refreshing treat and surprising flavor combos can add an interesting twist to your summer menu.

Two recent guests enjoyed a watermelon-elderflower granita made in two ways. The first was a chunky half-forgotten, but thoroughly enjoyed cup of granita. The second got the buzzed-in-a-blender version served in a martini glass. (Thanks Dave, for being so gracious!)

Savory or Sweet

Believe it or not, granitas can also be savory. Here's a freezer full of granita ideas:

• Use an umami-rich kombu dashi (broth made from kelp) and add a piquant note such as vinegar, wasabi, or ponzu or other citrus. Serve with raw oysters or clams.
• Think of refreshing summer salad flavors: celery, green apple, citrus, cucumber, melon. Use herbs or mint to add interesting notes. How about a little mint granita in a cool berry soup?
• Buzz up some cucumbers, shallots, dill and then make granita from the puree. Add to gazpacho. Or, make a gazpacho granita and serve with raw bar.
• Nigella seeds in a cucumber granita look lovely and add a mild onion flavor.
• Try a little matcha (powdered green tea) with cucumber flavors to accompany your own home-cured lox.

Liquor or wine add zip

Granitas often include liquor or wine as ingredients. Try the new elderflower liqueur, St. Germain, with seedless watermelon. (see photo) Halve one small, seedless watermelon, puree in blender with 1/3 C St. Germain or more to taste. Blend. Pour into glass 8X8 dish. Freeze for 20-30 minutes. Scrape and freeze. Or, freeze in chunks and buzz in blender. Serve in martini glass with sprig of chocolate mint.

• Leftover sangria can be frozen then buzzed or scraped into a granita, serve in wine glass with a slice of orange or lime.
• Hollowed out citrus can make great serving vessels for granita.
• Use English cucumber slices hollowed out to serve gazpacho granita as a refreshing summer hors d'oeuvre.

If you'd rather buy than make a summer treat: don't forget Capogiro Gelato,

watermelon-elderflower

sangria granita

St. Germain

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