Mastering good gravy is not difficult. Just be forewarned, you'll hear requests for more once you master this technique. Great for open-faced sandwiches, too.
Brining Turkey seems all the rage this year, at least if you believe the Food Network shows and the chef/cooking catalogs. This recipe is for a "dry brine" is an interesting and new technique. Essentially a salty spice rub that is rinsed off before roasting.
Basics of Good Gravy
Gravy seems to elicit fear in many a cook. Countless commercials make light of the lumps and tout products to ensure perfect, if pre-fabricated, gravy. Gravy is simply pan juices, thickened and seasoned. It's a wonderful thing and much easier than people think.
The Base - "Fond"
When roasting a turkey or chicken, strew chopped vegetables (carrots, celery, onion, an apple) in the bottom of the pan. As the turkey roasts and you baste, the vegetables will caramelize, developing a rich base (“fond”) of flavor for your gravy. When the bird is done, tent it with foil on the cutting board or serving platter, and turn your attention to the gravy.
De-glaze and Thicken
Sauce & Gravy Flour (Wondra is one brand) is one secret to consistently good gravy. It's simply finely milled flour. A couple of technique tips. If you've used a brine or a seasoned salt or a salted compound butter, be careful not to add too much salt. Depending on the quantity of pan drippings, you may need to add butter or oil to the pan. Place your roasting pan right on the stove top.
Scrape up the bits of vegetables that have cooked down, add wine to de-glaze the pan and release the fond. Madeira is a fortified wine that imparts fantastic flavor to a turkey gravy. Once you've tried this to de-glaze your roasting pan and taste the end result, you will be a convert. Some cooks use wine, some use Port. Whatever you do, do not use those “cooking wines”, they are inferior and salty and do not belong in your gravy. Or in your kitchen, for that matter.
Thicken
Add some flour (about a one-to-one ratio) to make a roux. (You may make a beurre manie ahead of time, this is kneaded butter and flour which you can add in bits to thicken your sauce or gravy.) This will thicken as you whisk in hot broth. If you're worried about lumps, you can whisk the flour into a measuring cup of hot broth first, then pour it into the pan. Add other ingredients as you like: fresh herbs, giblets, cider, wine, milk. A coloring agent, such as Kitchen Bouquet, can be added for color. It is essentially a caramelized vegetable reduction. A demi-glace may be added instead, this will impart flavor, sheen and salt, but not too much color.
If you have potato and gravy fans, you may want to ensure adequate gravy base (and this can be done ahead) by roasting some turkey wings in the pan along with some vegetables the day before. Chopping the wings in pieces with a cleaver or poultry shears will ensure that the natural thickening agents will be released and full flavor will develop.
Season
Careful with salt. As indicated, many steps or choices made in the recipe selection and execution can add salt so that cumulatively, it can easily end up much too salty. White pepper adds the right note to turkey gravy. If you use packaged broth, try cooking the neck, giblets, (but not the liver) in low-sodium, low-fat chicken broth along with some herbs. Bay leaf, allspice berry - both are nice additions.
If you'd like you may strain through a sieve. Try heating your gravy bowl or boat with some hot water to keep the gravy from chilling on its way to the table.
Do ahead notes: chop the veg for the pan, make beurre manie, decide what bowl you'll use to serve the gravy and find a ladle or spoon that won't slide into it.
