Gazpacho, Spain’s Famous Cold Soup

Discovering Andalusia through Gazpacho with Barrenechea as our guide.

From Cuisines of Spain - Teresa Barrenechea

"We Spaniards have also been spoiled by our devoted mothers, who take family nourishment seriously. No shortcuts allowed; every dish is artfully prepared with loving care and according to nearly sacred culinary rules that have been passed down through generations...Watch an average Spanish housewife buying in the market...she is knowledgeable, because she cares, and because taste is of primary importance to her and her family."

Cold Soup, Hot Drama

I can't recall the precise moment of my introduction to Gazpacho - the chilled vegetable soup of Spain. I do remember a moment in a Pedro Almodovar movie that involved high drama and Gazpacho. I think it was "Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown" where we see a beautiful, impeccably dressed woman, in the midst of a monologue tracing the insanity of the events pushing her to the edge...all the while sipping on a chilled mug of Gazpacho.

This scene crystallizes a lot of what draws me to Spain. Style, drama, perfect food, gorgeous architecture, passionate people. Like all good sons, Almodovar has a deep love for mothers. He also has a gift for drawing you into moments that are at once tragic and sad and also funny.

Gazpacho Then and Now

In her introduction to The Cuisines of Spain, Teresa Barrenechea points out the importance of regional cuisines. Andalusia was occupied by Moors for nearly 800 years and their influence is apparent in the language, architecture and food of the region. Ajo Blanco is the original Gazpacho. Like many deeply satisfying and simple dishes, this one probably originated with poor, resourceful cooks. Let's see we some day old bread, some garlic, some olive oil and what else....hm, almonds grow everywhere around us...

Into the Soup

And into the book, . The Gazpacho most of us are familiar with is often tomato-based. Once in awhile, we may see a restaurant offering a "white" Gazpacho, and it seems exotic. Guess again, Ajo Blanco, not its tomato-based cousin, is the original. (Tomatoes are a New World fruit that arrived to Spain later in time.)

Cuisines of Spain

This cookbook is so much more than a mere how-to guide for the home cook. This is a book for cooks, for armchair travelers, for those with an interest in Spain. The photography is transporting. The recipes are straightforward. The layout of the book may be used to plan a multi-course meal or to find a recipe appropriate for a particular course. Beginning with Tapas (appetizers), and continuing through Cold Soups and Salads, through Vegetable Dishes and Other First Courses, and so forth, right through Desserts and Other Sweets and Beverages. Another charming feature is the rich history and colorful descriptions of all the geographic and political and natural resources that helped shape the unique regional cuisines.

Barrenechea gives a host of resources in the book, as well as basic recipes for core components. The style of the writing is reflective of the culture too, I think. She tells you the formal "how it should be done traditionally" method or recipe, then tells you her favorite improvisations. Respect for the past, tolerance for creativity. Good information, simple instructions and sound advice. These all leave you feeling like you're cooking in the comforting presence of a trusted friend or treasured Aunt, at your elbow, patiently guiding you.

I highly recommend this Cookbook for any gift giving purposes - buy it for someone traveling to Spain, buy it for your favorite cook's next birthday. Here's another idea: why not buy it for yourself? You could also buy the Almodovar movie, make the soup, and make a night of it! If the heat of summer has you "on the verge," you'll find comfort in a cold mug of Andalusian Gazpacho.

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