Burgers Enjoy Their Gourmet Moment
Moose Sliders, Turkey, Salmon, Foie Gras Shine
From Paris to New York, Cordova to Boston, the burger is enjoying a rebirth. Call it Burgerphilia. Thomas Keller has Ad Hoc, Daniel Boulud's DB Burger (foie gras, short rib, truffles) and they keep coming. From the over-the-top Wagyu burgers served by hot restaurants to decidedly downscale offerings; everyone, even the French, have discovered the burger.
France Lacks Burger Culture!
One Parisian noted the primal joy of eating with one’s hands, while another French chef lamented his diners' insistence on using knife and fork. It’s rather humorous to imagine French chefs fretting over the making of a proper burger but they claim a disadvantage: they lack a burger culture. Others are adopting the American staple and adding obviously French flourishes: cornichons, foie gras, capers.
In Boston, a new restaurant opened recently, serving just four burgers: turkey, beef, veggie and salmon. Four sides, some ice cream and desserts round out the menu. The name? Four Burgers, of course. Kudos to owner Michael Bissanti for offering hormone-free local turkeys, no word on the source of his salmon, though. Ironically, foodies find his veggie burger to be the weak link. Continuing the irony: his restaurant occupies the space formerly housing Gandhi.
Another Boston new comer, Kingston Station pays homage to the French tradition of adding a fried egg on top. C'est magnifique.
In Paris and New York, innovation abounds. Florence Fabricant of the New York Times calls it an identity crisis noting that both the greasy bar food and the upscale gourmet burgers are popular. Some might argue that a crab cake or pulled pork, while served on a bun are not, strictly speaking, “burgers.” Meatball sliders? Po-boys? Lobster roll sliders?
Sliders are mini-burgers; or they should be. It seems that the term has come to indicate almost any small sandwich. Originally it was used to describe the White Castle burger which were sold by the bagful and had the characteristic of sliding down easily due to their greasiness. Think of that the next time you’re dining on $27.00 Wagyu sliders at an upscale bar.
Moose on the Menu
Odd as it may seem to many readers, there are still remote places where one can meet someone who had never eaten beef until they left home. The meat of choice, of subsistence, is moose.
Bullwinkle sliders were one of four hors d’oeuvres served at a recent Copper River Wild! Salmon Dinner. Guests of the Copper River/Prince William Sound Marketing Association joined residents of Cordova in celebrating the famed Copper River Salmon. Other hors d’oeuvres included Grilled Alaskan Halibut cheeks in crisp wonton cone with avocado mash and organic tomato sorbet; Windy Bay Oysters on the half shell with pickled cucumber; fried razor clams with summer sorrel.
Other Courses included:
- First: Spinach Gnocchi, local goat cheese fondue, Copper River Salmon Caviar.
- Second: Parfait of Copper River Salmon Tartare Braised Celery, House-made Ricotta
- Third: Copper River Salmon Charcuterie: Saucisson with Guanciale; Prosciutto Gravlax; Fennel Sauerkraut; Warm salad of local potatoes w/grain mustard vinaigrette.
Dessert and a Story
The Chef Regan Reik, of Pier W restaurant in Lakeshore, Ohio shared the challenges and the joys of planning and executing a menu in such a place as Cordova. With a once a week produce delivery, local offerings become much more important. When the rhubarb did not arrive for the planned dessert, a local woman invited the chefs home to pick what they needed for their dinner from her own garden.
The dessert, rhubarb gelato and wild berry baba, was delicious. Dinner guests nodded enthusiastically at the story emphasizing the close-knit, caring nature of the small community.
Cordova, Alaska was once known for their razor clams. Overfishing and earthquakes killed that industry but salmon has remained the town’s life blood. Generation after generation families make their living off the now carefully managed salmon fishing industry. Nearly everyone in the town is tied to the salmon in one way or another. This may explain the local tolerance toward the monitoring of their work. Sustainability is not just a buzzword bandied about at parties or foodie events. It is the essence of the town’s survival. Cordovans know that, and they know how to take care of each other.
Cordovans also know how to take care of their guests and their town's life-blood: salmon. More on that soon.
For now, have a slider (moose if you can get it) and enjoy the gourmet treat that is the burger.
