White asparagus (spargel), wild leeks (ramps) and morels all signal that spring has arrived. Enjoy my tips on preparing and enjoying these treats before they disappear.
Ah spring, when a young man's heart turns to spargel..
Spargel? White asparagus, of course! And ramps. And morels...what could herald the joys of spring better than these fleeting treats?
This week: Ode to Spring, Part One featuring spargel, ramps and morels.
Next week: Part Two, with fiddleheads, soft-shell crab and shad roe
Spargel - White Asparagus
First time I've made this at home. Glad my husband didn't tell me what they cost till after I'd cooked them. Four robust, beautiful pale stalks cost nearly $20 at our local purveyor.
Because white asparagus is grown in either covered beds or mounded by soil, they do not develop chlorophyll which makes the more common stalks of asparagus we see year-round green. Germans and Italians both have a long love affair with this pale, spring delicacy.
Preparation
- After a quick wash and peel, I gave a light brushing of olive oil
- S&P, and then on to the grill
- After they're done, soften some chopped shallot in a little butter/EVOO
- Drizzle the grilled asparagus with the shallots, a little truffle oil, and chopped fresh chervil.
If any leftovers remain, the asparagus is delightful chilled, in a salad or tossed with soft scrambled eggs. Decadent breakfasters could add a shave of truffle or some caviar but neither is necessary and the asparagus themselves will have set you back plenty.
Ramps
Here's a new recipe using ramps from a local chef. If you can still find some around, check it out!
Fried clams, Ramps Salsa Verde and Purple Potato Chips.
Ramps are wild leeks and are a celebrated sign that spring has arrived. They grow along Appalachian (South East US) and arrive just about mid-April each year. Later in the spring they can be found in the Great Lakes region where they're known as wild leeks.
Preparation
My favorite way to prepare them is to grill them with a little olive oil and S&P. That's it. Most people describe them as having a bite, but they have a sweet side I love. Grilling ramps lets them show it off. Carmelization, while quickly rising to the top of my list of most-overused words, is truly a beautiful thing.
- Grill ramps as above
- Chop them in about 2 inch pieces
- Toss them with roasted slivered fingerling potatoes
- Also olive oil, S&P, thyme
The combination of the onion-y and slightly sweet grilled ramps along with the smooth base of the roasted fingerlings and a healthy grind of pepper and dash of kosher salt. Divine.
Morels
Like most mushrooms, delicious morels can be had in the Pacific Northwest year round. We usually see them in the East in their dried form. Fresh ones are most often seen in the Spring displays in our grocers. They are delicate and expensive but like ramps and fiddleheads, morels have a wonderful and assertive flavor. The texture is strong enough to stand up in cooking and they, like their other fungi friends, lend deep earthy flavor and texture to pan sauces and soups.
Preparation
Our fresh spring morels appeared in a sauté with green asparagus and again in a leek braise/sauce for chops.
Fellow writer Devorah Stone has two quick and easy asapargus prepartions: click here to go to her post.
